The World by Moonboot: Armenia: simple living, high thinking

Let me start by commenting on the toilet situation throughout the trip. Iranian toilets were lets say, sub-optimal, usually consisting of a hole in the ground with a hose to clean and no toilet paper. Poor but nothing to write home about. BUT on crossing into Armenia at 2am I was confronted with this.

No hose to clean with. Instead an interesting looking broom, a bucket, a hole in the ground and a watering can! Now if someone can come up with a strategy that results in a satisfactory toilet session then please let me know.

The other funny occurrence was the great unveiling. As soon people passed customs into Armenia every single woman on the bus took their veil off and put it away... The funniest thing I have ever seen!

Yerevan, the capital of Armenia, is a beautiful city with a mixture of ancient, soviet and modern style buildings. The city dates back nearly 3000 years although walking around it is the soviet era which has the main appeal.

I visited a supermarket in Yerevan and was amazed to find a whole Aisle dedicated to Vodka. It is one thing to allow spirits into supermarkets but it is another thing to have a clearly labelled aisle so close to the check out. Classic.

I was met by Patris, from the Armenian family, and Karen, his friend. Karen is a tour guide in Armenia, Russia and India. He offered to give me a unique Armenian experience at a budget rate so I agreed. Tomorrow it would be into the great outdoors for 5 days.

First it was time for a feast with my home family. First to the dining room table for what I thought was the main meal. Fruits, cheeses, bread, spreads, meat and a few shots of a cogniac with Joseph. Then I was told this was just the precursor. Out to dinner for a ful restarant meal with more cogniac. Full and a little worse for wear it was time for bed.

Early the next morning we visited 3 famous Armenian sites. The oldest church in the world at 302AD andSt Gregory’s Cathedral in the mountains.

Then to Garni temple which dates back 2300 years to the Roman Empire.

Beautiful site on the edge of a cliff.

It was time to hike the 2.5 hours to the first camping spot at the confluence of the Azart and $$$$ rivers. A breathtakingly beautiful spot...and enough ants, spiders and moths to make ‘A Bugs Life II’.

We were camping with another group Karen was guiding.

The next day we walked high into the mountains to a place called the dragons stones. These stones date back 7000 years and their meaning is yet to be ascertained.

Up and up we went to a total height of over 3100 meters. After 10 hours walking in the beating heat we arrived and the spot was simply magical.

Shepards litter the hills with little stations and offer cheese, bread and tomatoes to any passerby.

The following day it was time for the long descent back to the Azart river. The scenery was magic and reminded me of NZ in places.

And more sheapards, Atfter 2 hours walking we arrived at a large sheapard camp. We were watered and fed by this family. Among them was ^^^^^. He is a Juventus fan and although English was not a shared language we managed to have a conversation simply by saying the names of players then smiling, frowing, grunting and frowning.

^^^^^ complained of a bad heart. When asked at just 38 years od he had a bad heart he said it was because he gets angry. “Angry about what?” Karen asked. “The donkey misbehaves” $$$$ reasoned!!!

The shepards also mentioned that when their butter runs out they use

New Zealand

butter! What is more incredible is that they only pay $1.90 per block of butter which is far cheaper than NZ. I think New Zealanders have a right to be angry about the price of dairy when sheppards in the

Armenia

high country can access cheaper NZ butter than we can!

Canyons

Large rolling hillsides

Along the way we passed a 2000 year old pagan temple. It has been great to be off the tourist trail in Armenia and see some legit old remains rather than processed touristy stuff.

We continued down to the Azart River once again. A new campsite, a new private bath and some firewood to cook a proper meal.

In all the walking was not too bad. 2 hours day 1, 10 hours day 2, 13 hours day 3 and then a final 2 hour walk to civilisation.

On the way out we walked through a classic borat-esque village with stray dogs, old corrugated iron, dusty streets, chickens and old women selling singular apples on the side of the road.

We taxied back to Yerevan and took in some more sites around the city

I then taxied back to the Simonian house and found out we were in for a night of partying. A young girl had just been chrisened so we were off to a restaurant. The restarant was incredibly plush and up rolled the Mercedes, Porsche and Hummers. The food was incredible with an array of vegetable cominations, cheeses, yogurts, seafoods, beef, pork, lamb and unlimited drinks brought by the waiters. To my right was Joseph, the granddad of the house. Very quickly I realised this was not just a night of eating but drinking too. Round after round of 10 year old Cogniac. After 4 days in the hills I was feeling it a little. Just as I thought Jospeh had finished another bottle appeared. Joseph and his mate proceeded to drink another whole bottle in front of my eyes. Very very impressed.

Classic Armenian Cogniac and plenty of it